Riding towards the Andes as we head to Quime
BOLIVIA FROM THE SADDLE
You know , I was expecting the ride to be harder . The Road of Death , Bolivian back country , Butch Cassidy & Sundance – the reputation for rough roads and rough riding was a bit intimidating . But I figured if a 4WD and trailer could do it following behind us , then I could ( probably ) cope . The biggest difficulty , and the biggest thrill , wasn ’ t the roads . It was the incredible scenery that made it hard to concentrate on the road in front of me . And , yes , they were just rough enough to require some concentration . And on even the roughest road , you were quite likely to encounter a bus or truck coming the other way – I had to take to the ditch more than once . Fortunately , the well-prepared 650s we rented easily handled everything we tackled . There were no serious breakdowns , and only a few minor crashes when ambition outran ability . ( Yes , me included ). But really , what an experience . Day after day of ever-changing surfaces , huge climbs and steep descents over thousands of metres of elevation , the vast Altiplano , blasting across the incredible Uyuni salt flats , the narrow , crowded streets of La Paz ( actually the most frightening part of the trip ), and don ’ t be afraid of the infamous Road of Death – it ’ s very interesting and spectacular , but on a good motorcycle , it ’ s actually a doddle . Just beware the flocks of barely controlled mountain bike tourists coming the other way . It was not just about the terrific riding , either . Great food , clean accommodation , interesting side trips – I ’ m getting old enough to appreciate some comfort at the end of a day ’ s ride , and Mike and Angela supplied it all . We completed a big circle around most of Bolivia , and never once did I wake up thinking “ Oh bugger , I ’ ve got to get back on that bloody bike again ”. It was a fantastic ride . Do it , before the Road of Death gets civilised . Captain Grumpy ( AKA Graeme Nealie )
If you ’ d like to go on your own Bolivian adventure , head to bythebackroads . com . Click here for more information or to give Mike or Angela a shout .
32 KIWI RIDER