Llamas , by the way , are the coolest of animals ; they possess the sangfroid of Bob Marley crossed with Billy Connelly . They give the impression that they have seen it all and done it all . The resourcefulness and the success with which the locals live and thrive can be a little humbling to those who have dwelt most of their lives at sea level . Even the ubiquitous coca leaf pouch in the cheeks cannot detract from the fact that this is difficult country to scratch a living from . Yes , they have narcotics in their mouths , but these people also have grit in their veins .
NOT JUST AN OBSERVER I had thought I would be an observer only ; thinking that by not riding a motorbike I would be a bit of an outcast , however this was not the case , as each morning and evening we gathered and plans were laid , warnings issued , and tales of adventure spun . Another preconception shot to pieces ; forget boring monologues about the best bikes to ride , or tedious comparisons of tyres , these guys turned out to be raconteurs . Every night we heard tales of humour , pathos , wit and wisdom , sometimes in the same story . Sadly , I cannot share them with you , as what happens on tour stays on tour . - I took the oath . Our days were not confined to riding motorbikes , avoiding those cool but somewhat suicidal llamas and staring at scenery . There were a series of mini adventures . At Coroico we lunched at a wildlife rescue centre , our meals helping to support the animals . The real adventure in this place was trying out one of the world ’ s longest zip lines . I did it and would go again in a heartbeat . Nearest thing to flying like a bird , with everyone encouraged to scream like a banshee on the way down . I was amazed to note that some of the people in our party were able to conquer the famous Death Road and other even more interesting roads that came after , but when it came to the zip line there was no way they would do anything so , “ dangerous ”. Other high lights for me included the Salar De Uyuni ( salt plains ). It is a landscape like no
Maury Mossman , from Oakland , California , at the top of the Death Road , Bolivia
other . Staying in a hotel completely built of salt blocks was an experience I would gladly repeat . Learning how the salt was processed was fascinating and I will never look at my table salt dispenser in quite the same way . There are no words big enough to convey the vastness of the plain . White glare makes sunglasses imperative and it is easy to see how unwary travellers could get disoriented and lost . Colourful flags from all over the world decorate a spot where the Dakar rally passes , offering some interesting photo opportunities . Returning to the reality of friends and family , I have stories to tell , and am profoundly grateful to live in this small , green paradise . I looked into the face of the abyss ( well , a 1000m drop ) and walked away . I slept in a room with a spider the size of a small terrier and tried my first ever chew of a narcotic - coca leaves ( foul muck , it tastes how nappies smell ). I did 14 days of dust and dirt and interesting loo stops . I ate unusual things and saw my first ever sex market ; I am still puzzled by the purpose of a fake bottom . In short , I had an adventure , and I loved every single gritty , heart stopping , panic inducing , laugh filled moment of it .
KIWI RIDER 31