SPROCKETS
WHY CHAINS ARE IMPORTANT Choosing the correct chain depends on a bike’ s power output and its weight – a chain needs to transmit the right amount of power to move the bike and a heavier machine puts more strain on a chain. Regardless of whether your chain is non-Oring, O- or X-ring( see types of chain), one that is worn out will either sap power, cripple your bike or even become a dangerous projectile, taking your crankcases with it in the process. A too-tight chain will accelerate wear through excess pressure on the sprocket teeth, chain joints and shaft bearings. A slack chain will also quickly wear, and in use could have a whip-like action that may result in snapping. Either condition will result in excessive chain elongation. This elongation, along with an increase in vibration and / or noise, will indicate when a chain is near the end of its life.
There are many factors which affect chain
wear, such as factory assembly accuracy, quality / condition / method of parts and lubrication. Even if you run a sealed roller chain, the best way to extend its life is to clean, externally lube and adjust it regularly.
WHAT ABOUT WEAR? The general rule of thumb is to inspect your chain every 500-800km. A quick visual check is to get hold of the chain halfway between the front and rear sprockets, and move it up and down. Chains can get tight spots, so rotate the chain around so you check all sections. If it moves more than about an inch, it needs tightening. If individual chain links are tight or stuck, the chain should be replaced. Try and pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the rearmost point. If you can see more than half the length of the sprocket’ s teeth, a new chain is recommended.
HOW ARE OE SPROCKETS MADE? OE sprockets are generally heavier, steel items( cheaper and easy to make in terms of production methods). Steel
KIWI RIDER 39