The Dunedin digs were completely
remarkable, an entire top floor of a
downtown building with room for more than
the eleven comfortably staying there from
our party. The 80th went well. Albatross
Colony, Larnach’s Castle, Early Settler
Museum, some exceptional cafes. Cards
Against Humanity hilarity. After four days I’m
itching to get back on the road by the 13th.
further on, cut a track right up to St Bathans
for a cooling drink at the pub and a squizz at
the Blue Lake... then on to Alexandra et al...”
I elected to take SH8. Just past Mosgiel I
entered the beginning of a paradisical few
days. These roads seemed to have been
designed and built by people who know
motorcycles. From this moment until re-
entering the ferry at Picton days later, I
was mostly in a magic world. Forgive the
happiness; I’ve rarely had such simple,
‘right here-right now’ days.
The gorgeous little mining towns of
DUNEDIN TO QUEENSTOWN
yesteryear are obviously doing well, with
booming tourist trades, and the roadside
On the morning of the 13th it’s dim. Damn
buildings spruce, painted, and smart little
dim. It’s 6:30am. I am in the world’s smallest
cafes beckon. You can no longer get a bad
elevator. It has three sides, with the fourth
coffee in the south; everyone is on their
open to the wall. It has stuck, again; stopped
game these days.
between floors. I push the button. Nothing.
By the time I reached Lawrence I knew this
I am not worried, this has happened
route was a winner; no traffic to speak of,
frequently; it’s a lift with a quirky personality. gorgeous little valleys, brilliant with lush
I’m not convinced that a lift is a great thing to greenery, and, seemingly, shampooed sheep,
have a personality, but you get used to it. A
and tufts of white cloud in the paddocks at
few seconds later it decides to do as asked. I
the roadside.
descend slowly, pack the bike, say good bye
It was also here that I came across a new
to the family, and head for Queenstown. The tarmac surface, known, I think, as quartz chip.
main highways from Christchurch to the deep It’s a whiter stone and at first I was cautious
south are excellent, but dull and numbingly
of it, but quickly realised that it allowed for
straight. But the roads south of Dunedin,
exceptional grip in cornering.
and the various routes, all offer exceptional
The roads got better and better. Passing
choices and spectacular country.
down the Maniatoto with barely a blade of
Several friends offered route
grass, beside flint coloured water, smooth
recommendations. Marian Hobbs: “Up
and dark with brooding clarity against the
through Palmerston, Ranfurly, Alexandra and stony edges of steep, jagged hills, was
then on to Queenstown. It is quicker and with mesmerising. For a trout fisherman, such as
much less traffic. Wonderful open spaces
myself, it was torture. It was in this landscape
as in Graham Sydney Maniatoto paintings”.
that I found how difficult it is to achieve
Helen Medlyn, Actor, Singer and Harley rider: two aims at once. I was moved, caught up
“Or you could do Mosgiel, Middlemarch... one in the sheer grandeur and spectacle of our
of the great roads to ride... even in rain! Then great southern land, and at the same time
the Pig Route SH85... Ranfurly, Wedderburn... berating myself for not stopping to fish, but
then a bit further on, if you have time, cut
there were so many places to do it, I couldn’t
a track left to Oturehua to see Gilchrist’s
decide where was best, and I was loving the
General Store... and back on SH85 a bit
scenery unrolling at pace. I kept going.
>
24 KIWI RIDER