KIWI RIDER 05 2020 VOL1 | Page 36

O U R Whilst the front forks on the ‘97 Blade might look like upside down units, they’re not. They’re cleverly served up to look like inverted forks, but legendary ‘Blade designer Tadao Baba wanted to stick with conventional forks as they were lighter. Whether that was part of the issue I don’t know but me being as chubby as a ZX-9R certainly was a bit of a problem. The standard fork springs just weren’t up to the task for a 100kg rider (plus gear on top) so I swapped them out for stronger RaceTech units which made a huge difference. That was pretty much the only upgrade I made to it until I took the bike to the track for the first time. That was at the very fast Eastern Creek track in the western suburbs of Sydney, and a few sessions around there highlighted a couple of things that I needed to deal with. T Y R E S FO R 16 - I N C H W H E E L S One of the perceived limitations with the early ‘Blades is the 16-inch front wheel, which is cited as being at the root of a lot of front end handling issues. I’ve never had a problem with it once the suspension was sorted, although I did find that the front was much more sensitive to tyre pressures than most bikes. I’d say the real issue with the bonsai front rim is tyre choice. The early ‘Blades are one of the few performance sports bikes to run the smaller front and the result is that very few tyre manufacturers cater for it these days. Right now, one of the best options is the Bridgestone S21,which works really well road or track. Sadly, it doesn’t look like the newer S22 will come in 16-inch size and the day may come when I have to upgrade to a 17-inch front wheel just so I can get a decent set of tyres. I do have a 17-incher in the garage and I’m not 100% sure of its lineage and I will have to figure that out if I ever decide to fit it, as some of the Honda rims from the same era are drop in replacements for the RRV’s wheel, but others require spacers to be made up to ensure correct alignment. Incidentally, the rolling diameter of the 17-inch tyre isn’t a full inch bigger than the 16-incher. This is because the tyre for the smaller rim has a higher 36 KIWI RIDER B I K E S profile, so the actual diameter difference is close to half an inch, but that’s still enough that the rear end needs to be jacked up to maintain the bike’s standard geometry. Personally, I’d prefer to keep the 16-inch on as long as I can anyway because I’m less inclined to use the ‘Blade at track these days. Binning it would be a disaster and the S21 Bridgestones are pretty much perfect for road use anyway. S U S PE N S I O N & G E A R I N G First up, the rear suspension. Whilst it hadn’t shown any limitations on the road, at track it felt soggy and compressed way too easily. Again, that’s likely a function of me being on the large side but plenty of FireBlade forums point to the rear end as a weakness in the early ‘Blades, more so as the rear shock has a few kilometres on it. Fixing that hit the wallet moderately hard as the upgrade of choice was a custom made Ohlins unit that cost me nearly $1500 (AUD) back then, which is around $2400 (AUD) when adjusted for inflation. This was a straight replacement of course, no machining required, and the difference it made was huge, both on the road and track. It’s still on there now and probably due another tear down and service soon. Having upgraded both front and back, I took the opportunity to get everything set up for my weight and riding style by a professional suspension mechanic and those settings, pretty much unchanged, are what I’ve used for the last 20 years. And everyone who rides this ‘Blade comments on how good the suspension feels even by today’s standards. It really is very good. And here I have to cite the passage of time and poor record keeping, but I always intended to replace the damping shim-stack in the front with RaceTech Gold Valves but, given I have no records of such an upgrade, I suspect that I never felt the need to do it after the other suspension work was sorted. Around the same time, I did drop one tooth off the drive sprocket which made it punch out of corners better at the expense of a little bit